How to Save Money on Cleaning Products (Make Your Own for Pennies)
Walk down the cleaning products aisle of any supermarket and you’ll find dozens of specialized sprays, wipes, foams, and gels — each one marketed for a specific surface, a specific stain, a specific room.
Bathroom cleaner. Kitchen cleaner. Glass cleaner. Tile cleaner. Grout cleaner. Wood cleaner. Stainless steel cleaner. Toilet cleaner. Oven cleaner. Fabric freshener. Multi-surface cleaner. And on and on.
The average household spends $40-60 a month on cleaning products. Most of that money goes toward specialized formulas, branded packaging, and marketing budgets — not toward ingredients that clean any better than a handful of basic substances that cost almost nothing.
This guide covers exactly what you need to clean your entire home effectively, how to make your own cleaning products for pennies per bottle, and which store-bought products are worth keeping versus which you’re paying a premium for no reason.
This fits alongside our 15 things you should stop buying guide — specialized cleaning products for every surface is one of the clearest examples of spending money on marketing rather than function.
The Five Ingredients That Clean Almost Everything
Before getting into recipes, here are the five inexpensive ingredients that form the basis of virtually every DIY cleaning product — and that together replace an entire cabinet of specialized cleaners:
| Ingredient | Cost | What It Does |
|---|---|---|
| White distilled vinegar | ~$3-4 per gallon | Cuts grease, dissolves mineral deposits, deodorizes, disinfects |
| Baking soda | ~$1-2 per box | Mild abrasive, deodorizer, removes stains |
| Dish soap (basic) | ~$2-3 per bottle | Cuts grease, general cleaning surfactant |
| Rubbing alcohol (70%) | ~$2-3 per bottle | Disinfects, cuts grease, streak-free glass cleaning |
| Hydrogen peroxide (3%) | ~$1-2 per bottle | Disinfects, removes stains, mold and mildew |
Optional additions that cost a few dollars and last months:
- Essential oils (tea tree, lavender, lemon) — antimicrobial properties and pleasant scent
- Castile soap — concentrated plant-based soap, replaces dish soap in many recipes
- Washing soda — stronger than baking soda, excellent for laundry and heavy cleaning
These ingredients together cost $10-15 total and make months of cleaning products. Compare that to $40-60 a month on commercial products and the saving is immediate and ongoing.
DIY Cleaning Recipes That Actually Work
All-Purpose Cleaner
This replaces the multi-surface spray you probably use most often in your kitchen and bathroom.
Recipe:
- 1 cup white vinegar
- 1 cup water
- 15-20 drops essential oil (lemon or tea tree work well — optional but adds antimicrobial benefit)
How to use: Combine in a spray bottle. Spray on surfaces, wipe with a cloth or paper towel.
Works on: Countertops, stovetops, sinks, appliance exteriors, bathroom surfaces, tile.
Don’t use on: Natural stone (granite, marble) — vinegar is acidic and will etch the surface over time. Use dish soap and water on stone surfaces instead.
Cost per bottle: ~$0.15 Commercial equivalent cost: $3-5 per bottle
THRIFTY HABIT #64 Reuse old spray bottles from commercial cleaners for your DIY versions — wash them thoroughly, label them clearly with masking tape and a marker, and fill with your homemade formula. You never need to buy a spray bottle.
Glass and Mirror Cleaner
This produces streak-free results that rival — and often beat — commercial glass cleaners.
Recipe:
- 1 cup rubbing alcohol (70%)
- 1 cup water
- 1 tablespoon white vinegar
How to use: Spray on glass or mirrors, wipe immediately with a microfiber cloth or crumpled newspaper. Buff dry.
The secret to streak-free glass: The cloth matters as much as the cleaner. Microfiber cloths or crumpled newspaper (yes, really) leave no lint or streaks. Paper towels often do.
Cost per bottle: ~$0.20 Commercial equivalent cost: $3-5 per bottle
Bathroom Scrub
Replaces commercial bathroom scrubbing powders and cream cleansers.
Recipe:
- ½ cup baking soda
- Enough dish soap to make a paste (about 2-3 tablespoons)
- 10 drops tea tree oil (optional — antimicrobial)
How to use: Apply paste to surface with a cloth or sponge, scrub, rinse thoroughly.
Works on: Sinks, tubs, showers, tile, grout (baking soda is a gentle abrasive that lifts stains without scratching most surfaces).
Cost per batch: ~$0.20 Commercial equivalent cost: $3-6
THRIFTY HABIT #65 Make the bathroom scrub in small batches as needed rather than storing it — baking soda paste doesn’t store well and the texture changes over time. It takes 30 seconds to mix a small amount when you need it.
Toilet Bowl Cleaner
Recipe:
- ½ cup baking soda
- ½ cup white vinegar
- 10 drops tea tree oil
How to use: Pour baking soda into the bowl first, then add vinegar (it will fizz — this is the cleaning action). Add tea tree oil. Let sit for 10-15 minutes, scrub with a toilet brush, flush.
Cost per use: ~$0.10 Commercial equivalent cost: $0.50-1.00 per use
Heavy-Duty Degreaser
For stovetop grease, oven spills, and kitchen surfaces with built-up grease that an all-purpose cleaner won’t cut.
Recipe:
- 2 cups hot water
- ½ cup white vinegar
- 1 tablespoon dish soap
- 1 tablespoon baking soda (add last — it will fizz with the vinegar)
How to use: Spray or apply to greasy surface, let sit 5-10 minutes, wipe and scrub as needed.
For oven interiors: Make a paste of baking soda and water, coat the inside of the oven (avoiding heating elements), let sit overnight, wipe out the next day with a damp cloth. Add white vinegar in a spray bottle for a final wipe to remove baking soda residue.
Cost per bottle: ~$0.20 Commercial equivalent cost: $4-7
Mold and Mildew Spray
Recipe:
- 1 cup hydrogen peroxide (3% — the standard pharmacy version)
- 1 cup water
How to use: Spray directly on mold or mildew, let sit 10 minutes, scrub and rinse. For stubborn mold, use undiluted hydrogen peroxide.
Alternative: Undiluted white vinegar kills approximately 82% of mold species on contact and is effective for most household mold situations. Spray, let sit an hour, wipe.
Don’t use bleach and vinegar together — they produce toxic chlorine gas. Use one or the other, never both.
Cost per bottle: ~$0.15 Commercial equivalent cost: $4-8
Wood Furniture Polish
Commercial wood polishes often contain silicone that builds up over time and dulls the finish. This simple DIY version nourishes wood without buildup.
Recipe:
- ¼ cup olive oil (or any food-grade oil — coconut oil also works)
- ¼ cup white vinegar
- 10 drops lemon essential oil (optional)
How to use: Mix well (shake before each use as it separates). Apply sparingly with a soft cloth, buff in the direction of the wood grain.
Cost per batch: ~$0.30 Commercial equivalent cost: $4-8
Fabric Freshener
Replaces Febreze and similar fabric deodorizing sprays.
Recipe:
- 1 cup water
- 2 tablespoons rubbing alcohol (acts as a carrier and helps the scent last)
- 15-20 drops essential oil (lavender is classic, citrus is fresh)
- 1 teaspoon baking soda (optional — additional deodorizing)
How to use: Shake before each use. Spray lightly on fabric surfaces — sofas, curtains, car seats, clothing. Let dry.
Cost per bottle: ~$0.20 Commercial equivalent cost: $4-6
WORTH IT / SKIP IT Commercial fabric fresheners: SKIP IT — they’re almost entirely water with fragrance and a small amount of odor-neutralizing agent. The DIY version works just as well at a fraction of the cost.
DIY Laundry Detergent
This is where significant savings are available for households with high laundry volume.
Powdered recipe (makes approximately 40 loads):
- 1 cup washing soda
- 1 cup baking soda
- ½ cup borax (optional but boosts cleaning power)
- ¼ cup grated castile soap bar or Fels-Naptha laundry bar
How to use: Use 2 tablespoons per load. Works in both standard and HE machines.
Cost per load: ~$0.05-0.08 Commercial detergent cost per load: $0.20-0.40
Note on DIY laundry detergent: It cleans effectively for lightly to moderately soiled loads. For heavily soiled work clothes or items with significant staining, commercial detergent or a pre-treatment may perform better. Many households use DIY for everyday loads and keep commercial detergent for heavy-duty situations.
Drain Cleaner (Maintenance)
For regular drain maintenance to prevent buildup — not for clearing serious clogs (see our DIY home repairs guide for that).
Recipe:
- ½ cup baking soda
- ½ cup white vinegar
- Boiling water to follow
How to use: Pour baking soda down the drain, follow with vinegar (it will fizz and bubble — this action loosens buildup). Let sit 15-30 minutes, flush with boiling water. Do this monthly for maintenance.
Cost per use: ~$0.10 Commercial equivalent cost: $3-6 per use
What’s Worth Keeping From the Store
Not every commercial cleaning product needs to be replaced. Some genuinely outperform DIY alternatives or are cheap enough that making your own isn’t worth the effort.
Keep buying:
- Dish soap — basic dish soap is already cheap and forms the base of many DIY recipes. No need to make your own.
- Toilet bowl tablets — the drop-in tank tablets that prevent buildup are convenient and inexpensive. Fine to keep.
- Laundry stain remover (e.g. Fels-Naptha, Zout) — for tough stains, commercial pre-treatments often outperform DIY. Keep one on hand for problem items.
- Drain snake — not a cleaning product but essential for clogs. Already covered in the DIY home repairs guide.
Stop buying:
- Specialized surface sprays (one per surface type)
- Commercial glass cleaner
- Bathroom scrubbing powder
- Fabric freshener spray
- Furniture polish
- Commercial all-purpose spray at premium prices
- Dryer sheets (use wool dryer balls instead — one-time purchase, lasts years)
Switching to Microfiber Cloths
One purchase that amplifies every cleaning product on this list — DIY or commercial:
A set of microfiber cloths ($10-15 for 12-24 cloths) replaces paper towels for most cleaning tasks, cleans more effectively than cotton cloths, and lasts years with proper washing.
Microfiber physically traps and removes dirt and bacteria rather than just moving it around — which means you can clean many surfaces with just water and a microfiber cloth, with no cleaning product at all.
The math on paper towel elimination alone: if you currently spend $5-10 a month on paper towels (common for households that use them for cleaning), microfiber cloths pay for themselves in 1-2 months and then save that amount every month indefinitely.
THRIFTY HABIT #66 Designate different colored microfiber cloths for different areas — blue for bathroom, green for kitchen, yellow for general surfaces. This prevents cross-contamination between cleaning areas and makes it obvious when a cloth needs washing.
The Full Cost Comparison
Here’s what a household switching from commercial products to DIY saves:
| Product | Commercial Monthly Cost | DIY Monthly Cost | Monthly Saving |
|---|---|---|---|
| All-purpose cleaner | $4 | $0.30 | $3.70 |
| Glass cleaner | $3 | $0.20 | $2.80 |
| Bathroom scrub | $4 | $0.30 | $3.70 |
| Toilet cleaner | $3 | $0.40 | $2.60 |
| Fabric freshener | $5 | $0.20 | $4.80 |
| Furniture polish | $4 | $0.30 | $3.70 |
| Laundry detergent | $15 | $3.00 | $12.00 |
| Paper towels (reduced) | $8 | $1.00 | $7.00 |
| Total | $46 | $5.70 | $40.30/month |
$40 a month — $480 a year — from switching to DIY cleaning products. The initial ingredient investment of $10-15 pays back in the first two weeks.
Combined with the subscription audit habits from our 15 things to stop buying guide and the broader cut your monthly bills strategy, small recurring expenses like cleaning products are exactly the kind of thing that adds up to real money when addressed systematically.
Getting Started This Week
You don’t need to switch everything at once. Start with the products you run out of first:
- All-purpose cleaner — make a bottle this weekend. Use it for a week. Compare results to your commercial version.
- Glass cleaner — make a bottle simultaneously. Clean one mirror with it.
- Bathroom scrub — mix a small batch next time you clean the bathroom.
Three products, one week of testing. If they work for you — and they will — make the full switch. If there’s anything you prefer the commercial version of, keep that one and DIY everything else.
Have you tried making your own cleaning products before — and what’s your go-to recipe? Drop it in the comments!